Day 11- ConquesLast night at Le Soulier we experienced the most wonderful of nights with our hosts Michael and Vivian. They had Vivian’s mother from Belgium and her friend (Christine) with them, the mother is nameless as she insisted we call her Mum. The friend volunteering was Jasmine and her young son 8, was Max. Jasmine is an actress in Brussels and also lectures at the University in drama, Max… would,
like to be a cowboy. We had several shoot outs. After dinner we sat around the table singing the pilgrim song Ultreia. "Tous les matins nous prenons le chemin, Tous les matins nous allons plus loin. Jour apres jour, St Jacques nous appelle C’est la voix de Compostelle. Ultreia! Ultreia! E sus eia Deus adjuva nos! " There are more verses; naturally. This morning a good sleep was followed by an equally delightful breakfast which started around 7 and resulted in us not leaving until 9am; despite our best attempts each day to be on the road by 7:30. As eventually we headed down the road they sang us Ultreia until we were out of sight. (In France so far the choice of road is either down or up) The pilgrim refuge is called Accueil Chretien du Soulie de Saint Jacques. It is situated on the GR65 2km before Espeyrac. Or 1km after the intersection of the GR65 and the GR6. Now out of the Central Massif for the past couple of days, the weather has turned into summer. The forecast is for more days like this. Should this continue Europe is in for a scorcher of a summer. I am glad we am not walking the Camino Frances in August. Hopefully by October when some of our friends start it may be more mild. We have advised Ce who starts later in April to bring plenty of sunblock for Spain. We have added three more names to our prayer list: Betty Anderson, Kelvin Quill and Frank Burgess (recently deceased). Should you wish a name to be added email me on [email protected] We have changed our walking strategy a little, using the roads when it seems purposeless to go up some of the hills of the GR65. The way the GR65 wanders around is a common source of complaint and we are not the only pilgrims avoiding completely unnecessary hills. Enda is always looking for short cuts and frequently would select the incorrect path if left to her own devices. I do think she is starting to appreciate the fundamental camino lesson of “Don’t walk on your own Enda”. We are in the Abbey St Foy in Conques tonight. We are back in the deep gorge of the river Lot. Yesterday we waked away from it over some hills but today it is once again our friend. Tomorrow morning that status may change with a climb of 280m to start before breakfast has time to digest. There is no easy way tomorrow, a day of only 20km (sounds easy) but is graded as one of the 3 toughest days of this camino.
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Day 10- Le SoulierTonight we are at a Gite, specifically intent on welcoming pilgrims rather than walkers. It is a little like last night except there are no offices or Mass. It is a tiny place that can accommodate only 6 pilgrims, two of whom presently are a mother and son, the mother being a volunteer worker at the Gite. She is working hard in the garden at this time. Her son is 8 years old and Enda
has been teaching him a little English. Today started off rather easily, but then the climbs began. Not too difficult but many of them! The camino taught us once again that as we climb we should live in the moment (Mindfulnness). Don’t be looking forward to see how long it is to the top, that can be dispiriting, don’t look back to see how good it was down on the flat land, as that is past history and cannot be relived. Be mindful instead of the immediate, what do you see, what is the path like, what plants are growing at the side of the path, what way is the wind blowing, how does it feel on your face, is the sun shining, is there rain or mist, is it cold or hot, … ,? These are only some of the many things which your mind could be considering. Focus your mind on these in a way that does not judge, just appreciate the moment for how you observe it. I have found such techniques to be truly helpful in many situations. So is deep breathing, but rather difficult if you are gasping for breath walking up hill. In that case stop, rest and try deep breathing and get your mind back into the present in a positive sense. For those interested in food, green lentils are still all the go even though we have moved out of Le Puy and the Central Massif. They seem to combine them frequently with cloves, either in soup or as a vegetable with meat (or other vegetables). Tonight we were treated to the regional dish called Alligot, a combination of Cantal cheese, potatoes, cream and spices. We should be putting on weight with all the good bread and wonderful cheese that we consume, hopefully we have found a good exercise and diet balance. We have added Dalmae Kelly to our prayer list. Please continue praying for her and all on our list. (The list may be found on the Useful Links page). On the Useful Links page we have added three links Brendan Bolton has given us. Brendan an Australian and family have recently upended roots in Australia and moved to Santiago to further his passion for the Camino. He has established Project Camino which produces podcasts of interviews with people who have walked the Camino. One of the three links takes you directly to an interview he did with us about 4 weeks ago, but most of you would be aware of its content. I suggest listening to some of the other podcast should you have the time. Day 9- EstaingDay 9 finds us in Estaing, one of the denoted “Beautiful Villages of France”. What we have seen lives up to that accolade. We are staying the night in a vast and bourgeois house which today holds the Hospitalite Saint-Jacques. By today’s standards bourgeois is no longer an appropriate appellation; historically significant true, but a little Spartan is more accurate. However, when you meet the two lay people whose mission has been to run this refuge for over 25 years and their 3 month volunteer helper, it feels you have found the perfect resting place. There is Mass tonight in their chapel, plus the office of Compline. In the morning there is the office of Lauds. Attendance as these services is optional but for me they are an essential part of our pilgrimage. Naturally we will remember all undertaking this pilgrimage in spirit with us. Today’s path was delightful. A local resident of Saint-Come-d’Olt advised us to ignore the official GR65 route and instead follow a road the ran close to and at times alongside the river Lot. How fortunate we were to encounter this nice man from Portugal (married to a French girl and living in Saint-Come-d’Olt). Naturally the whole conversation took some time to complete with his very limited English and our equally limited French. It is unlikely to be the type of encounter you would expect, but here on the Camino anything is possible. It was further complicated by my disbelief that his advice should be accepted! Not only did we avoid a path that was in poor condition, plus a number of steep climbs, but we were treated to outstanding views of a very fast flowing river Lot. I must reprimand myself for not letting go of wanting to be in total control and to trust in the goodness of others. Another lesson from the Camino. Enda has included a number of pictures of today’s walk, one showing another candle being lit (and prayers said) for all those who have asked to be remembered along The Way. We now have a page set up (thank you Tara) where your name may be added, or the name of someone you wish to pray for added. Just mail me [email protected] to have it included. It may take a couple of days for the name to appear.
Day 8- Saint-Come-d'OltToday was an early start with only a short climb of 120 metres, nothing like previous climbs but still we worked hard. The views were worth the effort and we received our reward (no not ice cream) but a 7km section of very easy walking on a good track. Disappointment then at L’Estrade as there was no coffee (which had been promised by another pilgrim). Nothing else for that matter, other than a round table in a wooden shelter. The table served as a lazy Susan for pilgrims with food and a resting place for half a dozen well kept cats. The cats I think would like to charge pilgrims for allowing them (the pilgrims) the privilege of being photographed with them (the cats).
There were no humans to be seen apart from one older French woman whose daily delight appeared to be meeting pilgrims and speaking with them. The fact that she knew we didn’t understand a word of what she said was no problem to her. She left us for a few minutes to return to her house and fetch her husband. He has a severe respiratory disease and drove up minutes later in an electric cart with his oxygen bottle. By now, some French pilgrims had arrived and the old couple were in their element for the morning. The husband even invited us to coffee (sign language of course), we declined politely as the last time a stranger invited us to coffee we were treated as the door-mouse at the Mad Hatter’s Tea Party. We continue on with a long descent that at times was rough, but were given a quick lesson in finding good chestnuts by Kathleen, a French pilgrim we met 4 days ago. With the coming of spring, bee keepers moved their hives up into these parts for flowering plants that give a specific flavoured honey. The wild flowers are more prolific now we are losing altitude. The gardens of houses we passed, coming into the town of Saint Come were kaleidoscopic in colour. Being so used to Australian gardens I was amazed at the colours of and the proliferation of plants that seemed to grow with little formal layout or attention. As you are aware we are also undertaking this Camino to raise some much needed funds for the St Vincent de Paul Society. Vinnies have supported so many vulnerable people. Members of the society put enormous personal energy and time into the cause. We hear of many cases of need and how the Society helps. The article “Why I Help one person’s story” shows how one member felt and dealt with a heart breaking situation. (The article may be found by clicking here). We hope you had the opportunity of reading Barry Borham’s article mentioned yesterday on Meditation and Mindfulness. (The article also may be found by scrolling down the Interesting Links page on this website). It may give you the motivation to try them out. People from all backgrounds and beliefs (or lack thereof) have benefited. I have used them both for anxiety and in prayer. Tomorrow night accommodation is in a Monastery where there is no WiFi, consequently we may be unable to write to our readers. On a lighter note- Enda had a very interesting night. "Almost landed in bed with a strange man at 3am this morning. Got disorientated on my way back from the loo. Turned my torch on just in time to focus it on his face. Wow, what a scare!!!!" Day 7- Saint-Come-d'OltOff at 7:30 to the Boulangerie for fresh bread in Nasbinals. Closed. Walked 9km on to Aubrac for coffee, all shops closed.
In those 9km we climbed to the highest point 1324m before our descent into Aubrac. The morning was foggy, the temperature low and the winds made their presence felt most of the time. The high country was largely treeless consisting of grassy plains waiting for the arrival of the summer cattle; now that the snows and winter sports had finished. Despite the weather it was a most beautiful walk. It is the type walk you wouldn’t undertake if snow threatened and visibility was much less than we experienced. The conditions we experienced on the Aubrac Plateau brought to mind the approaching winter in Sydney. We had good clothing, food and heated accommodation waiting for us at the end of the day. Not so for many of the unfortunate who struggle over the months of winter and are reliant on the help of the St Vincent de Paul Society and in turn on its support from good people. The descent down was harder than the ascent, due to the very rutted nature of the track, but the sun had come out and the little gorges we passed through were dressed in their finest wild flowers, the bumble bees were attentive, while the cuckoos were constantly announced their intentions. Down in the village of Saint-Chely-d’Aubrac, at the table outside the bar, we enjoyed a multilingual pilgrim get-together and Enda enjoyed the chance to improve her French. We met up again with Andrea and Francois (pictured). Francois was walking from Le Puy to Santiago while Andrea had started from her original birth town 110km before Geneva. We were very impressed with both. Thank you to everyone who has sent messages of support, they are much appreciated and help keep us on our metal. We continue walking with St Vincent de Paul in mind and today’s photo shows Enda drying out her wet Vinnies T-shirt on her pack. Yesterday we spoke about “LETTING GO” as one of the benefits to be learnt on the Camino. It is a skill the Camino introduced me to last year and which I strive to maintain. Essentially we seek to let go of anxieties that are largely without substance and/or have taken on a life of their own and may impact on our wellbeing if not adequately controlled. Meditation and mindfulness are two tools we can learn and apply to help in this regard. The 36 days of the Camino gives a wonderful opportunity to apply both. Many people feel uncomfortable with the very idea of meditation, feeling it is tool of charlatans from some obscure eastern cult. In the next issue of our parish publication the will have two articles on the subject. We include an unedited draft of the first by Barry Borham, a practising counsellor and psychologist. It summarizes the scientific evidence validating its value. The article can be found by scrolling down the Useful Links page. Day 6-NasbinalsA delightful undulating walk leading into the Aubrac plateau and away from the Beast de Gevauan’s territory of the past days. The rain threatened at times but it held off to give pleasant walking conditions. Jumpers were worn all day and the heavy coats or red balloon put on only occasionally. An unexpected open Gite provided potato soup for lunch and the company of Ybes and Dominique. They live in New Caledonia and visit Sydney regularly to see their daughter who lives in Maroubra. They would love to come down to the next Auscamino festival.
Except for the different trees and early wild flowers, it was rather like walking through the high country in Australia. There were the occasional deciduous tree and for the most part we seem to be above the fir trees. Six days of walking so far and we are just getting into our stride and commencing to believe we are on a pilgrimage. On the first few days one takes a little time to let go of things that don’t really matter. “Letting Go” is the subject of a talk we give about the Camino. Essentially “Letting Go” requires one to ask what is actually important. In doing so, we identify the unimportant, the unpleasant and decide how we are going to deal with the latter two. Living like pilgrims one must free oneself of many expectations and the tendency to insist on unnecessary worldly comforts we cherish. One must be prepared to ignore little inconveniences such as the crowded dormitory with the mandatory snorer and the uncertainties in accommodation at the end of each day. “Letting Go” is not achieved overnight it requires continual effort and the development of trust in oneself and in providence (which we interpret as faith). Along the Way of St James one constantly hears expressions such as “Trust in the Camino” and “The Camino will provide” Both expressions are of value as they contain some truth, but they are too simplistic to be taken literally. I prefer one centuries older, “Trust in the Camino but tether your camel” It is more appropriate as it is the juxstaposition of the responsibility of the individual with trust in a higher power. One of the many blessings we received from last year’s camino were our daily practical lessons in “Letting Go” as we progressed for 36 days. For me it is a class I need to take regularly. During the past year I have attempted to apply this to my normal life by not taking responsibility for matters not under my control. Over the following weeks we will describe some practical techniques we have found helpful. Day 5- Aumont-AubracThe rain predicted for today , fell as snow instead, last night. We were in Le Sauvage, not a town but a former huge seminary way off the normal roads, but still on the Chemins de Compostelle. What a wonderful sight to see as we rose from beds. The snow had ceased falling and while the whole day was overcast it was a day made for walking.
Today proved to be a much easier day for walking, the hills although plentiful enough were gradual and separated with long level paths. Only one coffee stop was available to us the whole day in the town of St-Alban-sur-Limagole. Over the next 2 days we enter the Aubrac plateau and the highest mountain on the Chemins at 1324 metres. At the only spot on the path today where the signposts were absent a golden retriever appeared from nowhere and encouraged us to follow him. The dog obviously knew the way as 500 metres further on we found the way marker indicating we were on the correct trail. The dog, obviously concerned for our welfare, then led us 5.5km to the village of Les Estrets, where with his work finished he turned on his heels and headed back. Even though there is a language barrier we have fellow French pilgrims who have welcomed us into their fold. The only fold so far on the Chemins. Most of the Gites (roughly the equivalent of the albergues of Spain) are closed because it is deemed too early in France for serious walking in the high country. It is accurate to say that only 20 pilgrims walked into Aumont-Aubrac tonight. We send our congratulations to Laura and Ross Handley on the arrival of their second son Jack. An unusual birth, 2 weeks early and totally unexpected at home. Only assistance apparently was from brother Ollie (3years) who abandoned his midwife duties to watch Pepa Pig. The France through which we are travelling is far from the sophisticated life of Paris. There are obviously very large profitable holdings but the villages have many empty buildings where the young people have long ago moved away in search of employment. Even though many Australian rural populations have diminished, the scale is nothing to that experienced in Europe. Australian agriculture was never as labour intensive as Europe. Hence the number of very old buildings that have fallen into ruin since the young moved out; or where the old that are left struggle to maintain them. It is not uncommon to see 3 level dwellings where there are occupants on the lowest floor while the 2 floors above are in various stages of decay. The French presidential elections are drawing near and speaking with some citizens with a good command of English, one senses a real fear that Marine le Pen could win (following the example of Brexit and the US Presidential elections). At dinner tonight, a French teacher reminded me that le Pen is a name synonymous with Fascism for the older members of the community who can remember the collaborators and the Vichy politicians who disgraced the French Nation under Nazi occupation. Each day as we travel we remind ourselves that we are undertaking this pilgrimage for spiritual and religious reasons. For the past 5 days our focus has been on gratitude for the personal graces we received from last years Camino. We know of the shortage of priests in Australia. It would seem to us, as pilgrim visitors, that matters may be even more dire here. it has been impossible for us to time our entry into a town to coincide with a Mass. The Parish where we currently stay is scattered widely over many towns. The past week has reawakened our awareness to the needs of Christ’s flock. We both pray and consider how our church (and ourselves) should best provide and adapt to the emerging needs of all people. Day 4- Le SavaugeThe Margueride plateau in the 18th century was a forested area and around 1760, many people lost their lives to the grey dog/wolf creature who attacked over a period of several years.
The threat of the beast was so great that royal hunters were sent to kill the animal. Tremendous mystery surrounds the beast, however, today it is believed the beast was not a singular being, but extremely large wolves acting alone or in packs. The fear of wolves virtually has vanished in western thought today, but historical records indicate they were a source of real danger and justified fear. In Saugues the beast shares pride of place with St James. In fact in the town, the traditional St James shells marking the way on the roads are replaced with images of the beast which has become a figure of fun instead of fear. If you have ever read C.S.Lewis’s “The Screw Tape Letters” you will note our concept of the devil frequently receives the same treatment; much to the delight of the head devil. The weather has started to turn today as we climbed higher with cold winds destroying our belief that springtime was truly established. Rain is forecast for tomorrow. Our progress was slow due to the continued up and down nature of the terrain. We only gained 360 metres overall in altitude but in reality it was a far greater climb. To lighten up the day we appeared at times to be strafed by jets of the French Air Force accompanied by sonic boom. We were forced to walk an extra 2km on an otherwise 20 km journey to visit the only open coffee shop within reach. How is that for addiction to the bean? We are now at an albergue in a most remote location. The location is beautiful and overlooks the grassed plains of the high country. There are no cattle here yet, they will come up when the warmer weather arrives. (The remains of the last snow is found outside the albergue.) The albergue could be nice but the management practices suggest you reached Faulty Towers by mistake. However, there is great spirit amongst the 5 pilgrims in residence despite language differences. Sorry no photos today due to limited internet, double tomorrow. Day 4- Le SauvageWe are in Le Sauvage. Unfortunately we don't have internet access. We will update you tomorrow once we get back into civilisation.
Day 3-SauguesUp early and on the road by 8am to climb 400 metres in the first 2 hours out of the river Allier valley. Wonderful views back down over the town of Monistrol. Enormous rock faces with volcanic layers holding together granite rocks like cement. At the top of the mountain a chance to pose in our Vinnies T-shirts. A little later on, a garage seemingly owned by an invalid who makes and sells coffee to the rare pilgrim this early in the season. One son who does mechanical work, another is making walking poles or the pilgrims expected after Easter and who is fascinated with and can play he didgeridoo. No English between them and almost non existent French on our part it didn’t get in the way of a stop work bilateral coffee session.
We have come across so many charming French people out here in the countryside and are gaining much walking fitness over the first three days. The temperature is 20 degrees during the day, however, it gets cold late in the day. Where are all the pilgrims and walkers? Surely these are ideal conditions. This must be exceptional is the only conclusion possible, for we left Australia with the anticipation of walking through snow at these elevations. We had some sad news last night regarding David Day, son of John and Margaret in our parish. New cancers have been found so we will keep him and his young family in our prayers and ask those of faith to join with us. Today we lit our first candle as a symbol of prayer for David and his family. |
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