Day 21- MoissacA good start to the journey to Moissac as we had moved 3km after our last town yesterday to find last night’s accommodation, thus reducing today’s walk to 24km. The best news being Enda’s leg stood up to today rather well. Last night she used 4 bottles of beer to assist in pain relief and it
seemed to help. As a person who doesn’t touch the demon drink Enda was unable to use them as internal medicine, however, she found the bottles made an effective cold compress. Tonight we encountered a reflexologist and treated herself to a session with her. Today we met a 78 year old man with a 9kg pack walking all the way from Le Puy to Finisterre (on the coast after Santiago). A little later we encountered 2 French men also undertaking the same pilgrimage accompanied by 2 black dogs, Princess and Lilly. For Princess this is her third Camino. I wonder do they give a certificate to the dogs for their efforts. We arrived in Moissac tonight tired when Enda met a lady from Wexford (in Ireland) now living in Moissac and who with her husband owns and runs a Gite for pilgrims. She gave us a lift up the hill to a different Gite where we had reservations. Enda started to worry when the lady told us her story. Her husband walked the Camino some 8 years ago. The result being they up and moved to France to further his Camino dedication! The longer walk today (after Easter Sunday) reminded me of the disciples who fled Jerusalem immediately after the events of Friday and were walking somewhat confused and aimlessly down the road towards Emmaus. In a confused state, not recognising their Lord when he appeared to them and walked with them until the day drew to a close. Still unaware they invited him to stay the night with them. The Camino today encouraged me to think about this as we walked, hopefully not aimlessly towards our rest but in a state of mindfulness. Of course that invitation from the disciples to Jesus is supposed to be the inspiration behind the hymn “Ábide with Me”
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Day 20 Lauzerte- HALF WAY POINT!Woke up on Easter Sunday morning hoping for a wonderful golden sunrise, but no, the day was overcast, but it was mild. Fortunately it didn’t have the downcast appearance of Saturday. After lunch the sun appeared and we are currently spending the next 3 hours sitting in high class country accommodation, way above our normal experiences. This was brought about not by our choice, but because it’s Easter Sunday and every Gite in town was full!
Jan you would feel at home here and would be pleased Enda is relaxing. I didn’t have to shoot her today as she managed to make the journey , but unfortunately with some difficulty. We shall just have to wait and see how the leg is tomorrow morning. I am encouraging her to take the day off and catch me up by using transport, however, resistance is high. We are about 3km past the town of Lauzerte in the most charming of Chambres d’Hote. Lauzerte is a medieval town located (naturally) at the top of a significant climb. We enjoyed the old city which was holding a flower market at noon and we had a rather nice Easter lunch in a café. Enda had a great time looking after the owner’s young baby and was reluctant to move on. In today’s journey we covered 20km before we encountered any coffee or food, fortunately we had a couple of apples left and we managed to take a little bread and butter from the breakfast table. We had expected to find a small store last night that would sell us a few provisions, unfortunately one didn’t exist. Tomorrow appears to be a similar day as it’s Monday and so many towns and villages seem to honour St Monday. Clearly France’s favourite saint. Being Sunday we arrived at Lauzerte after the shops closed for the day at 12. The Camino didn’t provide me today with any insight into the meaning of Easter I was fortunate over the two preceding days. We sat in a church and had our own Easter service as we were too late for Mass. Yesterday I described some of the country we passed through as the bad lands. Today the scenery changed and we are in more lush countryside, where the emphasis is on crops. Instead of car sale yards (which you wouldn’t expect out here) we are surprised at the number of huge tractor sales outlets with a massive choice of equipment. This area is clearly prosperous and we walked passed many immaculately maintained and lived in Chateaux. Wonderful drive ways and gardens which would require much care. You may recall Mr Hockey asking us to be lifters rather than leaners and to keep working until 70. Well I guess most of you thought that is all well and good for some but how about those engaged in heavy manual work. Yesterday we found a man that proved Mr Hockey correct. The uncle of the lady who owned the Gite demonstrates it is possible to be gainfully employed in latter years . The uncle lives in the Gite and is aged 91. We saw him bent over and pushing a heavily loaded wheel barrow down to a field where he was planting vegetables. This was not a backyard vegetable garden but a full size commercial field with him as the farmer!. Day 19- Las CabanesA short but difficult climb out of Cahors after crossing a magnificent bridge with 3 towers. We were given beautiful views back over the city. Today is Holy Saturday and we made our way to the small town of Las Cabanes, where there is no Easter Service tonight. The nearest is 10km away and we will be tucked up in bed before they are finished
Enda has hurt her leg a little walking on the uneven ground but in typical fashion refused to give up any of the weight she carried in her pack. Hopefully tomorrow she will be recovered somewhat, otherwise I will have to shoot her. We eventually found tonight’s accommodation, it should have been easy but we put in an extra couple of kilometres, our fault not the owners of the Gite. Enda is happy to have bonus distance up her sleeve, I believe she considers it will give her a pilgrim’s upgrade somewhere in the future. Yesterday was hot and I wrote of a meditation on Good Friday undertaken as we climbed that dusty road. Today the weather was a little different and the Camino gave me another unexpected Easter gift. When we were several kilometres from Cahors it became obvious that the sun would not break through the clouds and a cold breeze started blowing. Not a difficult day by any stretch of the imagination but one that jarred against the warmth of yesterday. The clouds gave the day a depressing feeling and as we walked through what I describe as the bad lands this feeling didn’t improve. Everything looked dark or grey, the trees seemed unduly stunted for the most part. There was one field with metre high flowers that had died but hadn’t fallen yet. The map we were following disagreed with the ground at several spots and we never walked feeling fully at ease. Pockets of stony barren ground frequently interrupted the vegetation. After many steps it caused me to think how today may have related to the apostles and disciples on that Saturday. All they believed and hoped for - dashed by the events of the previous day. Clouds of deep despair and dismay must have enveloped them. Leaderless not knowing where to go or what to do next. Until I sorted out the map problem I was feeling leaderless and in the gloom of the day the Camino gave me the chance to meditate in some small way and for the first time, on the plight of the Lord’s followers. It was the second Easter experience from this pilgrimage and I will always carry the memory of the experience with me. Maybe tomorrow the sun will break through and the glory of Easter Sunday be reflected in our day’s experiences. Day 18- CahorsAfter a nice stay in the Convent at Vaylats we had an early start for Cahors. This is possibly our longest day so far in more ways than one. We walked 24km very pleased to arrive and rather tired as it had been warm. We visited the Cathedral where there was a procession taking place for Good Friday, we presumed it was the
Stations of the Cross, but as it was in French we were left a little uncertain and also there were no signs of any of the 14 stations on the walls or in the cloisters as we processed. Just as well we left early today for when we arrived at our refuge we found it had closed permanently. So much for having a reservation made! Well with a lot of difficulty we found an alternate place and with even further delay we eventually found a taxi that was not booked to carry us and our travelling companion (non pilgrim bag) to our destination. The taxi was already occupied as the driver was taking his wife and father out for a drive through the city of Cahors. I think he picked us up just as a favour as he knew we were having so much trouble in obtaining transport. It would seem that taxis in Cahors are called by mobile directly to the driver. All that said I think Cahors is a nice place but as we have not seen a city for over two weeks it is hard to acclimatize to the bustle and traffic Like most towns over here there is a sharp demarcation between the old and new sections. We saw our first policeman since leaving Paris! In many of the little villages crime seems remote and doors are not necessarily locked. Today we add 40 year old Daniel Bagdon, recently deceased, to our prayer list. Over the past two days the countryside has becoming drier, the vegetation more sparse like much of Spain and all the high creeks are dry. Before descending into Cahors we worked our way up through a narrow valley for 3km. As it seemed unlikely for us to make any Church Service I started to meditate on the path in front of me. You may recall the French village of a few days past where hatred and distrust were all too obvious. I had been reading John’s Gospel over the past week and noted particularly the passages where he refers to Jesus emphasizing the hatred the world would show him and his followers. I imagined this dusty rough path as the road to Calvary, lined with people showing hatred and yelling abuse as they did at Jesus, while he carried his heavy cross. The hour was similar to that journey around 2000 years ago. How would I have coped in the heat after a night of abuse with all forms of indignities thrust upon me. The 3km path was hot, and the stones hurt even through the thick soles of my walking boots. The 4kg pack (my excuse for a cross) started to feel heavy, it seemed to increase in weight with each step, how would I have coped with a cross much heavier, crudely hewn with sharp edges that dug into my shoulders? I had no people showing hatred towards me, no Roman soldiers kicking and beating me each time I fell. I didn’t need a helper to share the load of the cross with me nor did I fall but still it seemed so hard that I felt like running away from my meditation, because I knew the road to the top was long. These thoughts and many more brought a new realism to me about Good Friday. I think the Camino today gave me the most wonderful gift possible. I have always loved the hymn “Were You There when they Crucified my Lord” but I have never felt I was truly there. Today as I trudged up that hill, for the first time it was different. I found it so moving, perhaps next year others may care to try a similar meditative journey on Good Friday. Day 17- VaylatsToday is Holy Thursday and it is mid afternoon here. By the time you read this it will be Good Friday in Australia. The three feasts of Easter are rather important to us, but while we are travelling it is often difficult to attend the various services. Even where we are staying tonight in a convent there are only the daily offices to attend.
An easy day moving 16km to the Convent of the Sisters of Jesus in Vaylats. Weather still perfect and today we met Chantelle a retired school teacher from a large city who moved to a small village for the past 3 years. She found this village to be the very opposite to the one we spoke about two days ago. She is well accepted in the village and took us to meet one of her friends Monique, who runs a very nice restaurant and joined us for coffee. The restaurant was not open at the time but Monique welcomed us all the same. Chantelle travels every afternoon from her village to Vaylats to attend the afternoon office with the nuns in the convent. She has walked the Chemins Saint Jacques and is planning to walk the Camino Frances in her retirement The restaurant is rated in the Michelin guide and Jamie Oliver seems to be a good friend of Monique. There was a European cooking book by Jamie there I hadn’t seen before so Enda and I photographed a couple of new recipes. Incidentally the restaurant prices were reasonable, 18 Euros for a set meal without wine. The village is called Bach and is on the road to nowhere. The restaurant has a splendid French country atmosphere and should I ever return to France (by car) I think I will head towards nowhere. There are still many forests in the country through which we walk. The GR65 markings have been poor the past few days. Whoever, arranged the layout must have been Irish. For those who do not know, should you ever seek directions in Ireland, the response will always starts with “Do you see that road there, then don’t go that way“. The markings here seem predominantly marked by the cross saying “don’t go this way” while the correct path is often unmarked! At one time “the don’t go this way” was near the base of a tree and the grass had grown up and obscured it. Nevertheless we have managed to get this far with only one significant error. As you walk through the villages you are struck by the number of names of the fallen on monuments in the first world war. These villages today are hardly of any size whatsoever. All as a result of WW1 as too many Enfants de France were lost. I know we have lost many fine young Australians in WW1 (60,000) and that loss affected far more families and the social fabric of Australia for more than one generation. But in France besides the names on the war memorials you see much more physical evidence even to this day; 100 years later. If you have ever travelled through the French countryside and villages you will see very old houses in a state of ruin or very near it. These were substantial old buildings throughout France that were abandoned after WW1 when young men didn’t return to run the farms or marry and start families. Let us pray that the current hostilities, threats and hatreds, so evident today in so many places and ways can be resolved; and that attitudes of love prevail. Let this be an Easter prayer and hope for all. Day 16- Limogne-en-QuercyWe left Cajarc and the river Lot with a nice flat section before we climbed only 200 metres, short by the standards of previous days but still an effort on broken ground. Another day of shaded walking in forest areas. Where there were fields the cattle were absent, being still locked up in huge barns. Day temperatures are delightful, maybe it’s the lower ones at night that cause the farmers to continue holding them indoors.
We walked 19 km on the GR65 route. Enda was disgusted when we arrived at our Gite to find it was only 13 km by road. Pilgrims often complain about the way the GR65 wanders about. Schules explained this all to us 2 days ago. The GR routes are long walking routes in France designed for hikers, not pilgrims. Consequently, they are set out to take in as many scenic spots a possible. When you then consider the French hikers are probably only walking for 7 days, it starts to make sense as they are not necessarily trying to travel long distances across France. In Spain on the Camino Frances, guide books indicate a standard path designed to be an optimal route in both distance and difficulty. In the books several alternate routes are shown, the green being referred to as the scenic, will take pilgrims up and over all sorts of mountains, or historic sights on the way (or out of the way) to Santiago. So should you are comparing difficulties ensure you think of the GR65 as the full bells and whistles variant of the Camino Frances. We met a couple today walking from Geneva to Santiago as well as a group of 5 walking from Le Puy to Santiago. We also met an 80 year old and his 75 year old companion doing a 10 day walk in France. You meet some very experienced walkers on the GR65, who make you realise your limitations. Well we found the internet tonight because there is a tourist office in the town. Hope we have the same joy tomorrow. Day 15- CajarcYesterday when we stopped for a late lunch on the way to Bedeur, a Belgium man (Schules) arrived wearing a floppy hat similar to the ones the Australian forces wore in Vietnam. He was a retired member of the Belgium Airforce and has been walking regularly in Europe ever since. He has served as a hospitalero and has a wealth of Camino walking knowledge, particularly in France. He speaks Dutch, German, Flemish, French, Italian, English and Spanish. That is not that unusual in Europe, particularly in small nations like Belgium and Holland who are sandwiched between larger trading partners. Nevertheless it makes most Australians’ linguistic abilities seem abysmal. In general the French and Germans we meet do not have anywhere near the same language range. We were having communication problems acquiring accommodation over Easter Sunday and he sorted it out for us. These problems were starting to seem unresolvable to us, when out of the blue Schules came upon us at lunch and with half a dozen phones everything was rectified.
This is another example of the Camino will provide. Really it’s a matter of trust, a trust that we ourselves should be prepared to step outside of any little world in which we cacoon ourselves for safety. A trust to take a chance (not a foolhardy risk) that despite difficulties we encounter we can win through. And a trust in the innate goodness of others through whom many can see the hand of God at work. Of course trust may be equated to letting go of all those things holding us back and preventing us living a full life. Trust and letting go are really both sides of the same coin. This morning we met another example of a young lady trusting. I don’t know her name, she is from Slovenia and has never walked far before. So on 4 weeks leave from her European Commission work she purchased all her walking equipment and set out on her own to walk for 3 weeks, the hardest section of the GR65 (this Camino). She saw this as a challenge, something I could not have contemplated at her age. Again trust from a girl whose desire it is to finish up at Lourdes to work as a volunteer with the infirm for her final holiday week. Previously, we met another girl who put some time in at Lourdes doing similar volunteer work. After a week of immaculate weather the storm finally arrived last night and from our vantage point in our accommodation we ate while watching it unfold over the valleys and hills for as far as the eye could see. (Perhaps it would be truer to say it enfolded the valleys and hills). A truly magnificent sight. Yesterday I wrote in our journal that I was not too impressed with aspects of our accommodation, but like pilgrims we accepted them. But after sending our report to you the lady of the house not only brought us the 3 foods mentioned yesterday but a whole feast of cold foods including above superior quality wine. I think she took pity upon us when she sensed our disappointment and realised the misinformation in the guide book. She followed it up by providing brilliant ingredients for breakfast this morning. Today we came across one sad example of non-acceptance on the way to Cajarc. In a village we found the Gite named Blue Shutters (the name is not unique in France), the lady manager was Swiss and had been there for 3 years. The village is rather isolated by French standards and a local funeral had just taken place. It seems funerals are the only time that everyone gets together in the village. The lady said the villagers wouldn’t accept her because she was a blow in from outside France. We were sitting outside the Gite drinking coffee as the people were leaving the cemetery and we witnessed the hostile attitude towards this woman from so many of the people as they passed by. Their attitude ranged from ignoring her to glaring at her or muttering about her to their spouses. The atmosphere oozed with hatred. We immediately thought of the Gospel story where locals could hardly wait to stone the woman caught in adultery. Perhaps in this village it is about peoples fear of the unknown. We certainly have seen that in Australia when it comes to asylum seekers. I asked the lady how she thought the locals would vote in the forthcoming presidential elections and she opined it would be a strong vote for the far right. Day 14- BedeurWe have now finished the second week of our pilgrimage, and the mantra of rise and walk for 20,000 paces is well established. Today at lunch time we took out the bread left over from yesterday and found it too stale for our liking. Immediately we thought of the hungry, even in a seemingly affluent city like Sydney who would have really appreciated what we were prepared to dispense with. It really brought the good work of Vinnies to mind.
Our preparedness to discard good (but stale food) brought its own reward (or punishment). Tonight we arrived at our pre-arranged accommodation, which though a delightful place, is remote with no shops open, because in Bedeur everything closes on Monday. Instead of a Gite (none in Bedeur open) we booked in advance to a Chambres d’hotes (more up market). They were supposed to supply a good dinner and breakfast (or at least the Miam Miam Dodo guide said so). But the owner tells us that has changed this year, because her husband has another job and doesn’t do the cooking any more. After arriving hungry and tired we found there is no food and the nearest town is 8km away! We had already eaten all the food we had carried during the day. Also there is no other accommodation here hence we are stuck for the night. Well we have received our just rewards for the indifference we showed at lunch time to yesterday’s bread. After pleading our plight the owner relented and offered us some bread and pate for dinner. With a little horse trading we substituted milk and few eggs for the pate. Before this we had started to wonder do Vinnies do food runs this far away! Remember if you have appreciated receiving these reports, visit our donate for Vinnies page and support their good work, even if they cannot help us in Bedeur! This is our first stay in a Chambres d’hotes (equivalent to a B&B but usually with dinner). When I first saw a sign 6 years ago for a Chambres d’hotes I misread it as Chamber of Horrors. Now I think I was originally correct. Today we passed through the largest town so far of Figeac. Figeac has everything you need but again its Monday and the town is also largely closed. I hope, when we reach Carjac tomorrow, we don’t find Tuesday is their day off! Last night we were in a beautiful Gite in Felzins. As in all Gites the owner advises you of the procedures to be gone through to prevent the transfer of bed bugs from Gite to Gite. Bed bugs can be found in any place of accommodation, but they seem to be transported more easily in crowded places where back packs are involved. The owners want to be informed should you find bed bugs. Well last night I heard all faint tapping sounds in the bedroom but paid little heed to it. In the morning I found 3 dead bugs and took them to the owner. He was very pleased to tell me that they were not bedbugs but a wood bugs. After I told him about the faint tapping sounds (termites in action) he clearly wished I had found bedbugs instead. For the next two nights we may not be able to find WIFI, so please be patient. Day 13 FelzinsThe Gite last night was full of French walkers. One nice couple looked after us and we had an interesting meal. The Monsieur works for the company that makes Yoplait and comes to Australia regularly. Yoplait is a combination of 3 words. Yo (Yoghurt), P (pasteurisation) and lait (milk).
I think we are losing weight on the journey, but with allthe food I don’t understand how! All the other pilgrims we have come to know are scattered across the Chemins. One girl Betty, who was walking for a week (as do many Europeans) has gone back to her family. While another French couple we met yesterday are just starting their week of walking. Many of the walkers are middle aged persons approaching retirement. The pilgrims walking to St Jean or further are generally younger. Today was a nice walking day of about 20km, the hills seem to be getting easier as we get up each morning and head out to face them (or else we are getting fitter). By now many of you may have read Barry Borham’s article on Meditation and Mindfulness. (See interesting Links page) Yesterday I mentioned one example of how mindfulness is useful for me in handling the more difficult hills. Today I wish to point out similarities between walking the Camino and Meditation as I understand the latter. Most meditation requires a single focus and a mantra to assist that focus if and when required. Sometimes the mantra can be the focus itself. Well walking 20km per day is at least 20,000 paces of left, right, left, right … The very act of walking may be seen as a mantra in its own right. Putting it together for 30+ days in a row is a great basis for a pilgrimage, with meditation as an important component . It is rather easy to select a phrase(s) that replaces left, right, … to suit your disposition and needs. Today (Palm Sunday) we found 11am Mass in a small village at the top of a hill. We were rather fortunate as we arrived right at the blessings of the palms outside the church. A kindly French woman gave us a portion of her palms which we later carried, tied to our packs. Fortunately I had a small print English translation of the long Gospel for today. Enda had to make do with rapidly spoken French interspersed with singing which we don’t experience in Australia. The weather still continues to be brilliant, how long can it last? Sun burnt walkers can be seen everywhere. The ground is drying up and there is very little mud left. The bells in the Churches and some other buildings chime every hour and on the half hour. I remember church bells when I was young in Randwick, we rarely hear them now in Sydney, I think it’s a shame. Here they are everywhere in the country side. They seem to be badly coordinated as at midday it is possible to have 24 separate chimes. Day 12- DecazevilleToday we left Conques a village with a medieval charm hanging on the sides of a steep gorge above the river Deurdeu. We spent the night at the Abbey de Saint Foy and just managed to stay awake for the office of Compline at 9:30 after a long day and large meal.
This morning we faced a hard climb out of the gorge. When we left Sydney we had worried about this day, but because we were adhering to the Camino philosophy of “Letting Go” over the past 11 days; we found it well within our ability. Letting go ensured that the anxiety (which is unimportant because there is nothing one can do about if we are committed to the action of climbing the mountain) is allowed to pass through to the keeper (to use a cricket analogy). As a result we both started with a positive frame of mind and even passed younger pilgrims in the ascent. Going up we came to a Chapel of St Roch. It is tiny but has a bell, the chord hangs just inside the door and we believe pilgrims are expected to toll the bell as they pass. Well Enda certainly did. There are several stories of St Roch. One has him as a physician who contracted the plague while undertaking the pilgrimage to Santiago. He was one who didn’t succumb to the plague and on recovery stayed on to treat other pilgrims who became infected. He is much revered along the Camino and many Chapels are found dedicated to him. He is normally depicted in statues holding his tunic above his knee to depict the plague mark. Usually accompanied by a dog as it is said when he was suffering from the plague, a dog continually licked his wounds clean. He is said to be the patron saint of dogs and bachelors. For the lovers of food: tonight we had a dish which could be described as lasagne like. The important distinction being instead of pasta, sheets of cabbage are used. The meat ingredient is minced pork with herbs. There are traces of other vegetables, bread and rice. Not to be ever seen on a Parisian restaurant table but is superb country food. Like all the food so far on the Camino it was not sophisticated, merely wonderful home style cooking. I somehow get the impression that despite our attempt to emulate earlier pilgrims we are failing in our dietary intake. We need to constantly remind ourselves that one purpose of this Camino was to help the St Vincent de Paul Society, at the moment with all the good food, we feel we are letting the side down. But tomorrow morning as soon as the climbing begins all this will be forgotten, as we progress step after step. Always remembering to live in the moment and to be content with one step at a time. Mindfulness yet again put into practice. Tomorrow here is Passion (Palm) Sunday and we enter the final week of Lent. We added Kelvin Quill, Frank Burgess, and Betty Anderson to our prayer list. Today’s candle for all our pilgrims in spirit and those on our prayer list was lit in a Chapel of St Rock 1.5 km from the village of Noailhac. You may be able to make out St Rock in the statue. Remember if you wish to put someone on our prayer list or to have any intention included, please email me [email protected] |
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