Day 34- AroueI managed to leave Navarrenx and catch up with Enda despite Christine appearing from nowhere out of a bar door offering all sorts of summer wine as an enticement to stay with her (see picture). Then it was a day in which the weather started deteriorating, firstly to very strong winds and then rain. Fortunately we reached our destination before the skies opened due to an early start. Our arrival was delayed a little by Enda taking time out to rescue a young foal; so she has earnt for herself another pilgrim upgrade. Because of the threatening weather we tended to push ourselves a little harder today which probably explains why we are so tired tonight.
Last night we had an open fire at our Gite. To my great surprise we saw what looked like a didgeridoo hanging alongside the fire place and which was burnt at one end. It seems this didgeridoo like implement is used to fan the fire. The host told me its French name (quickly forgotten) and said it is very effective for fire lighting. I suggested it could be played but the mouth piece was too charred! “Its not used for music” he replied before running out to bring in a didgeridoo which he proceeded to play. He informed us that many a person in France plays the didgeridoo. This didn’t surprise me as he was the third person on the Camino we met that had at least one instrument. Please remember all those on our prayer page. In many churches across France we have lit candles and prayed for them, as well as all of you who are making this pilgrimage in spirit with us. We are now entering a Basque district in the foothills of the Pyrenees and one observes a difference in the internal architecture of churches as more ornate designs are employed and the more austere walls disappear. As the weather started to deteriorate today, as the winds grew to fierce intensity it would be easy to succumb to feelings of gloom. I think this is a natural human tendency, but it is not of any practical use, it doesn’t get rid of the miserable conditions and will only make them appear worse than they are. So when matters became uncomfortable I found it useful today to apply some of the principles of mindfulness. In doing this I remained aware of the wind and the darkness that was spreading over the countryside but avoided making judgmental decisions. I simply listened to the howl of the wind, felt the strength of it blowing in my face and noted the complete absence of the wind when we entered forested areas. In the dull light, I saw the flowers (probably many weeds) growing along the banks of the road in a new light. The brown tops of some long grass like plants suddenly took on a beautiful russet hue. The blues, the whites and the yellows of so many flowers suddenly took on a brightness of their own, a brightness one can never see on sunny days. Their brightness neutralised dullness in the skies. Even observing the rain pattern patterns in the distance and the variation in cloud textures put one very much in touch with the environment. Of course it doesn’t fix the weather difficulties but it sure puts them in manageable perspective! Tomorrow is forecast to be fine, but on Tuesday I will need to apply plenty of mindfulness as heavy rain is due!
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Day 33- NavarrenxI will take responsibility for leaving the charger adaptor in Pomps and thus only providing a minimal report yesterday. But the saying “the Camino will provide” again turned up trumps.
Firstly, the manager of the Gite went out of her way to assist us by phoning back to Pomps and explaining in French to our host there what was missing. (Imagine Enda and I trying to do this with our limited command of the language.) She then rang Transports Claudine and arranged for them to call into Pomps, pick up the adaptor and carry it 2 stages to Navarrenx. Around lunchtime today Enda received a text message from her saying that the adaptor had been collected and would be waiting for us when we arrived at Navarrenx. We are truly grateful pilgrims. There were no shops open at the previous village last night, or again this morning. The only place today where one could buy lunch was closed. So after 20km of walking we were feeling rather hungry, but once again the Camino stepped to the fore. We just happened to be passing an isolated farm house on a largely deserted route when a small white delivery van dropped in with the daily bread delivery for the farmer. We were able to buy a fresh baguette from the driver! It was precisely the same time we received the text message about the adaptor. Again we are grateful pilgrims. So tonight we are safely in Navarrenx. The countryside becomes even more beautiful each day and the richness in the wild flowers is astounding. Beautiful green hillsides and many small forests encompass us. Today we ate our late lunch at a table alongside a fountain and a small shrine depicting Jesus meeting the Samaritan woman at the well. Enda was truly amazed when we went past a magnificent home where she observed what appeared to be a lawn mower (without the handle for pushing it) running around the lawn without a human in sight. On closer inspection it couldn’t cut grass and appeared to be either a very large remotely controlled toy with someone using it to amuse the pilgrims; or an experiment in robotic control as the device had to work its way around the many obstacles it encountered. Only three days left of walking and we reach St Jean Pied de Port. So it is time for us to ask ourselves some searching questions before we finish, as to why we walk a second Camino, what lessons have we learnt and what do we hope to bring back to everyday life. Our current feelings are somewhat different to when we were approaching Santiago last year. Three days out, there was wonderful excitement, not only for the two of us, but amongst all around us, as they approached their goal of the tomb of St James. Even for those with no religious affiliation, the excitement was equally obvious. On this Camino there is no beacon of Santiago drawing us in, (like the lines on the shell of St James) to the centre; so those feelings of intense excitement are not present. It is a much more relaxed form of spirituality we are experiencing. There is no desire for us to cease our walking, we would just love to keep going and continue the feelings of oneness with the tranquillity of our pilgrimage. Perhaps looking at it another way, the Camino is teaching there is no end to a true pilgrimage. I hope this is true and that our pilgrimage continues through the time remaining for us. It was late on a Thursday evening in winter when Louise first called SVP. Her house had just been flooded by a torrential downpour that had damaged the heating. With a young baby to care for, Louise was at her wit’s end.
The woman at the end of the line explained that local Conferences usually only visit once a week on a Tuesday. Louise understood. But within an hour there was a knock on her door, and two local volunteers were there to help. She was never so happy to see anyone. Louise had only recently moved into the house with her seven-month-old son, and had to put down new floors and kitchen tiles. And now this was all destroyed. Recently made redundant from her last job, Louise was really going to struggle with all these new bills. That’s where volunteer Marie and the local SVP conference came to her rescue. Using donations from compassionate supporters such as you, they were able to give her vouchers for food shopping and to get some new household items in her local Vincent’s shop. “I was amazed and so appreciative,” says Louise, “and I couldn’t thank Marie enough for coming out to help me.” But the story didn’t end there. Prior to needing the help of SVP, Louise had decided to return to college to further her education. She had always had a passion for computers and technology and had been accepted for a place on an IT course in DIT. But juggling the costs and stresses of being a single parent and studying full-time was very daunting. “A few weeks into college, I was finding that at the end of each month when all the direct debits and bills were taken out I was left with literally nothing, like nothing. I didn’t even have money for shopping. I was even stuck for nappies sometimes, and that’s when I had to call SVP again.” “Marie came out to visit me and she has been wonderful. She has been a big supporter of mine and I know she cares. She really encouraged me to stay in college and to get my qualification. I really wouldn’t have been able to do it without Marie and the other volunteers.” Thanks to the grace and generosity of SVP’s supporters, Louise was able to stay in college and complete her two-year course. And then one day, as she was coming to the end of her course, Louise visited Marie with the best news. “Oh Marie,” she said with excitement, “I’m after getting a job… and I won’t be needing your help anymore!” “She was so thrilled and delighted for me and my son,” Louise recalls, “but she said, ‘Keep in touch, make sure you keep in touch’. And we have been keeping in touch, you know, since I started work. It’s to her that I owe everything to. I can’t describe what it was like to see the smile on her face when I came to tell her the news that day.” As someone who has benefitted from a little help at the right time, and had her life transformed, there is no better person than Louise to tell you about the difference your support of SVP makes: “I would just like to thank the donors and tell them how SVP are the backbone of all our communities. Whether it’s for homeless, whether it’s just for the normal, everyday working person who just needs a dig out in that particular time or whether it’s for a young girl or boy starting college, SVP help everyone and they are so important in the community.” “A lot of communities would find extreme hardship and difficulty if SVP weren’t there. These men and women who dedicate their time and hard work to SVP – it’s just amazing. They help everyone, whether it’s financial or just to sit there and listen to an elderly person or someone who is going through a difficult situation. They’re there. And if SVP were to pack up and leave the community, I don’t know what would happen to a lot of people. What SVP do and stand for is just so wonderful, and without them I wouldn’t be where I am today.” If you would like to donate to the St Vincent de Paul Society please click on : https//vinniesnsw.gofundraise.com.au/page/EndajerardBarry Day 32- MaslacqA comfortable walk crossing the river Pau to the village of Maslacq. Weather still cold but sunny as
the day progresses. Disaster last night, we left our charger for the computer behind and there is only 20% charge left on the computer now. No shops in this town, this is just a short message before our charge is gone. We hope we will be able to buy a charger in the next town tomorrow. If so a longer report tomorrow. Day 31- PompsA 21km walk through some nice hills with views of early morning fog lying in the valleys below. A moment of inattention and we were away on the scenic route! No going back is our motto so we navigated our way through, with little thanks to the Michelin Guide, but Miam Miam Dodo proved invaluable as did a short consultation with a retired farmer. Instead of a yes/no answer to our request “was this the correct turn?” we not only received the yes but it was contained in long discourse which confused us entirely.
The rain has passed us by, but the day remains cloudy with bursts of welcome sunshine to provide a little warmth. Those Pyrenees continue to grow in size each day but there are 5 more days until we reach them. Just when we are comfortably in our stride, the end comes into sight. We would like to draw the Chance Card saying Go Back 10 Spaces and If You Pass Go collect 200 Euros. Many of our followers have seen “The Way” a movie about a disaffected Dr Thomas Avery (Martin Sheen) who goes to France following the death of his adult son, Daniel (Emilio Estevez), killed in the Pyrenees during a storm while walking the Camino de Santiago. Should you never have seen this uplifting movie we strongly encourage you to do so. Most pilgrims arrive at Santiago feeling a change in their life as did Dr Tom. Maybe no where near as dramatic but a change all the same. I was going to ask you to pray for all pilgrims who undertake the Camino when we had finished in 5 days time. To pray that they receive a life long benefit from their undertaking. But I bring that request forward to tonight following a pilgrim we met this afternoon. The man arrived at our Gite dragging his belongings behind him on what could be described as a wheelbarrow in reverse. He lost his daughter last year in a car accident and is undertaking this Camino in search of understanding and explanation. He is greatly in need of prayer. So I will have Tara add him to our prayer list as the unknown pilgrim. Please pray for him (and other pilgrims) as well as all those already on our prayer list Samantha's* StoryThank you to all who are following our Camino walk and have contributed to our appeal in supporting the St Vincent de Paul Society. To help them continue with their great work ,all donations no matter how small ,help immensely. Below is Samantha's story outlining how St Vincent de Paul Society helped her. A hand up from Vinnies at just the right time has turned Samantha’s life around and she and her children now have a bright future ahead of them. Samantha* started life in Samoa as one of 10 children. A childhood filled with trauma – emotional, physical and sexual abuse, separation from her parents, constantly moving and never having a home to call her own – set the pattern of vulnerability that has dogged her life. Aged 25 and pregnant with her first child, Samantha moved to Australia with the man she would later marry. After separating from her husband, fearing for her safety when he tried to pursue her and the death of her mother in Samoa, Samantha found herself in a downward spiral. Struggling to survive, she began binge drinking and smoking. “I had abandoned myself in a way and was not caring for myself – this was my way of coping,” said Samantha. In amongst this, Samantha fell pregnant with her second child. Her partner also physically and mentally abused and tormented her on a daily basis. He destroyed her Citizenship Certificate, her children’s birth certificates, their school reports and clothes. At the end of her tether, she fled with her kids to a friend’s house, ending up in a shelter for several weeks. Sadly she soon returned to her ex-partner, after he begged forgiveness and insisted he’d changed. But, as Samantha puts it, “with little self-esteem and belief in yourself, it is easy to fall prey to others lies.” The abuse worsened and Samantha fled to another shelter three months later. She’d already sent her eldest child to live with his father to protect him and needed to get her other child and herself to safety. She and her five year old son travelled overseas but soon returned to Australia. Upon her return her abusive ex-partner tracked her down and tried to kill her by sitting on her chest with a pillow over her head while her son slept beside her. Samantha spent the next five and a half years constantly moving. With only sporadic casual work, debt piled up and with no stable income, finding stable housing became impossible. She and her son lived in share accommodation, caravans, private rentals, and motel rooms. Sometimes they wandered the streets with their suitcases, worried where they would sleep for the night. Samantha lived with paranoia, a locked jaw and faintness. Traumatised, she was hearing voices - all symptoms of Post-Traumatic Stress Disorder. Samantha’s job agency worker understood Samantha would find it difficult to find stable work without a place of her own, and contacted Vinnies Families Back on Track (FBOT). Samantha was accepted into the transitional housing program, and soon she and her son moved into a fully furnished two bedroom unit. The Vinnies Support Worker worked with Samantha to set goals for herself and to guide her through achieving them. “I was encouraged to see a positive life for myself and my family and provided all the support I could want to help me achieve my goals,” said Samantha. Samantha was provided with support to get out of the cycle of pay-day loans, was referred to a psychiatrist and other health practitioners and participated in education and skills-building workshops. Samantha was beginning to take care of her physical and mental health and build self-confidence. “My Support Worker encouraged me to believe in my strengths – my sense of humour, my insightfulness, my ability to provide a better life for my son. “Families Back on Track is not just a place, it was a home for me and my son. I was given respect and felt that I had dignity for the first time in my life. If it was not for Families Back on Track and their vision for me, I would not have been able to transcend my past and envision a better life for myself,” she says. Samantha has since gained a Counselling Diploma and completed a Diploma in Community Services. She dreams of going to university to study Psychology, wanting to pay the kindness she and her family received forward and help other domestic violence victims. *Real names have been changed to protect the privacy of the people we support. Day 30- Arzacq-ArraziguetToday turned out to be an easy walking day, despite the intense cold. We caught up with 4 pilgrims we hadn’t seen for over 2 weeks. It was good to learn they are progressing well. Not all pilgrims are so lucky, today we heard of one (we had previously walked with), who had to abandon his Camino after 4 weeks of effort. Last night a girl from French Canada needed to stop and seek medical attention as her ankles were too swollen to walk; while man was having the day off with foot problems.
On two occasions as we walk we encountered following inscription: We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors, we borrow it from our children (Antoine De Saint Exupery). In our age it is a reminder to all that we are merely stewards of our planet. We read regular reports in Australia that the divide between the rich and poor in Western countries is increasing. Most of us learn this from the media rather than first hand experience. In fact many of us are sheltered from ever dealing with the disadvantaged. Through this Camino, in largely rural France and last year in Spain; we have received an exposure to significant sections of society in economic difficulty. This is seen in small shops, about the size of our corner stores in Engadine, which normally have a large stock of goods; but here the shelves are short of stock and the shops of customers. In small bars and coffee shops where the owner awaits at the door the arrival of the pilgrim. In some stores the items on the shelves are placed one to one in a line so that you have 2 metres of the same product trying to make the large premises look busy, but the empty freezer cabinets put a lie to this. These are the outward signs a pilgrim observes, the personal impacts will never be seen by us. In Engadine, like many others, I am insulated from seeing those in need, but I am made aware only by reports that there is great need around us. The Camino (while in different lands) has reminded me of needs in our own country. Day 29- Aire-sur-l'AdourWell my test as a pilgrim didn’t eventuate this morning as the heavy forecast rain failed to wet the ground. On two occasions we put our rain gear on for 10 minutes but it proved unnecessary. We walked most of the time with Yves the policeman, after having spent the previous 3 nights in his company. I still do not understand his French, but we are educating him in Australian (as opposed to English) and he is proving a fast learner.
You may wonder why I make the distinction between English and Australian, it’s all to do with the accents. Many French people understand a little of what the English and Irish say to them (in English) but find it most difficult to deal with the Australian accent. Enda and I sometimes find it difficult to ask our French hosts the right questions. Consequently, for the past three days the police chief is helping us with our enquiries. Yves has the most engaging personality and is immediately at home with everyone he meets on the Way. A truly great ambassador for the Camino. For several days now those Pyrenees mountains on the horizon have started to grow larger even though they are days away yet. When we first saw the mountains we saw only the snow covered peaks from our hill tops, but now we are starting to discern the foothills. While we are filled with excitement at reaching them, we don’t wish our journey to end. But end it must, as must all things both good and bad. Completion is a necessary part of everything. How do we deal with completion? While walking over recent days I started thinking much about completion and realised there is a wonderful poem allegedly written by King Solomon towards the end of his reign. We know it as Ecclesiastes 3 and it is reproduced below. It takes opposites and combines them to complete the cycle. There is a time for everything, and a season for every activity under the heavens: 2 a time to be born and a time to die, a time to plant and a time to uproot, 3 a time to kill and a time to heal, a time to tear down and a time to build, 4 a time to weep and a time to laugh, a time to mourn and a time to dance, 5 a time to scatter stones and a time to gather them, a time to embrace and a time to refrain from embracing, 6 a time to search and a time to give up, a time to keep and a time to throw away, 7 a time to tear and a time to mend, a time to be silent and a time to speak, 8 a time to love and a time to hate, a time for war and a time for peace. While some of the concepts such as war and hate may jar a little in our minds 2000 years after Christ, they made perfect sense in Solomon’s era and were appropriate for that time; and the sentiment of completion remain so today. Thinking about it as we walked (I admit I didn’t recall all the verses) it seemed to make a lot of sense to review our life’s activities in terms of completed cycles. For in even the depths of any cycle there is the glimmer of light and hope. Day 28- Lanne-SoubiranYesterday we wrote that “Pilgrims receive with Gratitude”. No I am far from considering I meet those requirements of being a pilgrim, not because I am cheating in any physical sense but because I have not achieved unconditional acceptance of what may be given to me along the Camino . There are many stages to get to where I wish to be as a pilgrim. The first one I think we met last year on the Camino Frances; namely learning how to let go of the things that were unimportant (eg snorers and crowded accommodation) and to develop a sense of trust in venturing out into the unknown. I suspect anyone who completes the Camino Frances and is smiling has mastered both.
This Camino with its much larger moments of solitude is trying to teach me something more and it’s to do with unconditional acceptance of what the Camino may throw up at us. Examples are plentiful, When and if we encounter the heavy rain forecast for tomorrow, how will it be accepted? Will I see it is as something good for the farmers with their parched fields; but as a problem and inconvenience to ourselves as pilgrims. I guess that would be the normal worldly view, but it’s not the state in which I wish to remain. I would like to have a broader perspective and to accept there is something to benefit me spiritually (by getting wet) even though at the time, I probably won’t recognize it. We generally have a list of things in life we want, but they don’t necessarily correlate with what we need. It sometimes takes years for us to accommodate this perception and appreciate when we are given what we need as opposed to what we desire. ANZAC DAY Provided the internet works tonight you will be reading this on ANZAC morning. If we were in Picardy and other parts of northern France you would be aware of the Australian presence in WW1 when services to commemorate Anzac Day are held. Down here in the midi-Pyrenees the Australian troops were not deployed in WW1, in fact there was no fighting down here although the loss of local young men was enormous. With all the troubled spots in our present world we are indeed in need of prayer and cool heads. Day 27- MancietAn early start and a walk to Eauze, where the Marie (local town hall) was very busy with voters arriving for today’s elections. Naturally we did stop for coffee and patisseries, because some days they are unavailable. You must take every advantage should it arise. The first 8km was along a disused and dismantled railway line; a reminder that despite all its high speed trains the French railway system (like Australia) has shrunk with changes in transport technology over many years. The fast trains in France, however, truly deserve their reputation and seem a good solution for the nation’s needs. Most of the distances are not too long, giving the railway many advantages over flying to most destinations. With journey times of up to 4 hours (max) most major centres of France are serviced with trains that start and end within the city limits.
Today was a very pleasant walk, although I hadn’t fully recovered from the heat yesterday. Enda is doing well and many of the problems of earlier days are well under control. While Enda started out with hesitation and worry about her capabilities for this pilgrimage she has settled into her stride and approaches each difficult section with new confidence. If she continues at this rate it will be a repeat of last year’s Camino where she was rather hard to keep up with at the end. For the past 2 days we walked in a significant wine growing areas. The farmers applied a fertilizer to field after field of grapes, the aroma is far from pleasant. The price of wine in the shops appears to be less than a half of what it is for the same quality (as what most people we know purchase) in Australia. We encountered a hay stack immediate to the GR65, and took the opportunity to pose pretending that we had slept rough in the stack. It may sound romantic to sleep in a hay stack, but the straw is a little prickly after a short time. Also the presence of mice, rats and snakes (yes they do exist here) may be discouraging. Yesterday morning we met a Monsieur du Barry, who drives for Claudine Transport. He told us about the Bari Barry association of the family clan from all over the world. It seems their last annual meeting was in Argentina and we exchanged details for further communication. He is well across the history of the Barry family which he says originated in Germany and spread through France across to England and Ireland. Our branch arrived in Ireland with the Norman invasion according to my father. Monsieur du Barry informed me of a John Barry in France who murdered many in his family to inherit a title, but was subsequently banished into exile some centuries ago. My Dad either didn’t know about that story or purposefully didn’t mention it to me. He was always proud of the family heritage and spoke of an Admiral John Barry who played an important part in the US navy in the nineteenth century. We continue to be astounded at the way most people are so kind and helpful to pilgrims where there is no obligation to do so. There is a saying on the Camino Tourists Demand, Pilgrims Accept It seems cute but verges on being at best trite, but more realistically is inappropriate. It is inappropriate because it suggests that in merely accepting, one has reached pilgrim status. Just accepting implies a possible qualification in attitude. For example, acceptance may be performed grudgingly. After some discussion with Fr Mick last year on the subject of being a pilgrim we feel the second line should read Pilgrims receive with gratitude. Because having an open heart to whatever is offered, acceptance without qualification and with true thankfulness one is closer to a pilgrim spirit. Enda The walk today wasn't too hard which was good because Jerard wasn't too well. He got too much sun yesterday and woke with a headache and feeling a bit sick. Of course he wouldn't listen to me and take the day off but insisted on walking the full 20 km. He is feeling much better now. We are staying in a really funny place. The people are lovely but don't have any English. The lady was trying to explain something to me. She took me to the bathroom, picked up a bucket and carried it down the corridor to Jerard who looked at it. Jerard thought the toilets were blocked and he had to use the bucket. She then proceeded to indicate that we brought the bucket downstairs and out onto the street in front. There was much laughter on both sides when it was discovered later that we didn't have to empty the bucket onto the street, but in fact it was to bring our washing down to dry! The problem was that we had to put our washing on a clothes horse on the main street outside the gite. Not a pretty sight as I don't have sexy underwear! I hope this building is still standing in the morning all the rafters and wooden beams are riddled with holes from termites. Our bedroom is most peculiar on either side of the room there are two full length windows one looks out onto the stairwell the other looks out onto the corridor leading to the communal toilet. Anyone coming up the stairs or going to loo can look in and see us in bed! |
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