Day 17- VaylatsToday is Holy Thursday and it is mid afternoon here. By the time you read this it will be Good Friday in Australia. The three feasts of Easter are rather important to us, but while we are travelling it is often difficult to attend the various services. Even where we are staying tonight in a convent there are only the daily offices to attend.
An easy day moving 16km to the Convent of the Sisters of Jesus in Vaylats. Weather still perfect and today we met Chantelle a retired school teacher from a large city who moved to a small village for the past 3 years. She found this village to be the very opposite to the one we spoke about two days ago. She is well accepted in the village and took us to meet one of her friends Monique, who runs a very nice restaurant and joined us for coffee. The restaurant was not open at the time but Monique welcomed us all the same. Chantelle travels every afternoon from her village to Vaylats to attend the afternoon office with the nuns in the convent. She has walked the Chemins Saint Jacques and is planning to walk the Camino Frances in her retirement The restaurant is rated in the Michelin guide and Jamie Oliver seems to be a good friend of Monique. There was a European cooking book by Jamie there I hadn’t seen before so Enda and I photographed a couple of new recipes. Incidentally the restaurant prices were reasonable, 18 Euros for a set meal without wine. The village is called Bach and is on the road to nowhere. The restaurant has a splendid French country atmosphere and should I ever return to France (by car) I think I will head towards nowhere. There are still many forests in the country through which we walk. The GR65 markings have been poor the past few days. Whoever, arranged the layout must have been Irish. For those who do not know, should you ever seek directions in Ireland, the response will always starts with “Do you see that road there, then don’t go that way“. The markings here seem predominantly marked by the cross saying “don’t go this way” while the correct path is often unmarked! At one time “the don’t go this way” was near the base of a tree and the grass had grown up and obscured it. Nevertheless we have managed to get this far with only one significant error. As you walk through the villages you are struck by the number of names of the fallen on monuments in the first world war. These villages today are hardly of any size whatsoever. All as a result of WW1 as too many Enfants de France were lost. I know we have lost many fine young Australians in WW1 (60,000) and that loss affected far more families and the social fabric of Australia for more than one generation. But in France besides the names on the war memorials you see much more physical evidence even to this day; 100 years later. If you have ever travelled through the French countryside and villages you will see very old houses in a state of ruin or very near it. These were substantial old buildings throughout France that were abandoned after WW1 when young men didn’t return to run the farms or marry and start families. Let us pray that the current hostilities, threats and hatreds, so evident today in so many places and ways can be resolved; and that attitudes of love prevail. Let this be an Easter prayer and hope for all.
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Day 16- Limogne-en-QuercyWe left Cajarc and the river Lot with a nice flat section before we climbed only 200 metres, short by the standards of previous days but still an effort on broken ground. Another day of shaded walking in forest areas. Where there were fields the cattle were absent, being still locked up in huge barns. Day temperatures are delightful, maybe it’s the lower ones at night that cause the farmers to continue holding them indoors.
We walked 19 km on the GR65 route. Enda was disgusted when we arrived at our Gite to find it was only 13 km by road. Pilgrims often complain about the way the GR65 wanders about. Schules explained this all to us 2 days ago. The GR routes are long walking routes in France designed for hikers, not pilgrims. Consequently, they are set out to take in as many scenic spots a possible. When you then consider the French hikers are probably only walking for 7 days, it starts to make sense as they are not necessarily trying to travel long distances across France. In Spain on the Camino Frances, guide books indicate a standard path designed to be an optimal route in both distance and difficulty. In the books several alternate routes are shown, the green being referred to as the scenic, will take pilgrims up and over all sorts of mountains, or historic sights on the way (or out of the way) to Santiago. So should you are comparing difficulties ensure you think of the GR65 as the full bells and whistles variant of the Camino Frances. We met a couple today walking from Geneva to Santiago as well as a group of 5 walking from Le Puy to Santiago. We also met an 80 year old and his 75 year old companion doing a 10 day walk in France. You meet some very experienced walkers on the GR65, who make you realise your limitations. Well we found the internet tonight because there is a tourist office in the town. Hope we have the same joy tomorrow. Day 15- CajarcYesterday when we stopped for a late lunch on the way to Bedeur, a Belgium man (Schules) arrived wearing a floppy hat similar to the ones the Australian forces wore in Vietnam. He was a retired member of the Belgium Airforce and has been walking regularly in Europe ever since. He has served as a hospitalero and has a wealth of Camino walking knowledge, particularly in France. He speaks Dutch, German, Flemish, French, Italian, English and Spanish. That is not that unusual in Europe, particularly in small nations like Belgium and Holland who are sandwiched between larger trading partners. Nevertheless it makes most Australians’ linguistic abilities seem abysmal. In general the French and Germans we meet do not have anywhere near the same language range. We were having communication problems acquiring accommodation over Easter Sunday and he sorted it out for us. These problems were starting to seem unresolvable to us, when out of the blue Schules came upon us at lunch and with half a dozen phones everything was rectified.
This is another example of the Camino will provide. Really it’s a matter of trust, a trust that we ourselves should be prepared to step outside of any little world in which we cacoon ourselves for safety. A trust to take a chance (not a foolhardy risk) that despite difficulties we encounter we can win through. And a trust in the innate goodness of others through whom many can see the hand of God at work. Of course trust may be equated to letting go of all those things holding us back and preventing us living a full life. Trust and letting go are really both sides of the same coin. This morning we met another example of a young lady trusting. I don’t know her name, she is from Slovenia and has never walked far before. So on 4 weeks leave from her European Commission work she purchased all her walking equipment and set out on her own to walk for 3 weeks, the hardest section of the GR65 (this Camino). She saw this as a challenge, something I could not have contemplated at her age. Again trust from a girl whose desire it is to finish up at Lourdes to work as a volunteer with the infirm for her final holiday week. Previously, we met another girl who put some time in at Lourdes doing similar volunteer work. After a week of immaculate weather the storm finally arrived last night and from our vantage point in our accommodation we ate while watching it unfold over the valleys and hills for as far as the eye could see. (Perhaps it would be truer to say it enfolded the valleys and hills). A truly magnificent sight. Yesterday I wrote in our journal that I was not too impressed with aspects of our accommodation, but like pilgrims we accepted them. But after sending our report to you the lady of the house not only brought us the 3 foods mentioned yesterday but a whole feast of cold foods including above superior quality wine. I think she took pity upon us when she sensed our disappointment and realised the misinformation in the guide book. She followed it up by providing brilliant ingredients for breakfast this morning. Today we came across one sad example of non-acceptance on the way to Cajarc. In a village we found the Gite named Blue Shutters (the name is not unique in France), the lady manager was Swiss and had been there for 3 years. The village is rather isolated by French standards and a local funeral had just taken place. It seems funerals are the only time that everyone gets together in the village. The lady said the villagers wouldn’t accept her because she was a blow in from outside France. We were sitting outside the Gite drinking coffee as the people were leaving the cemetery and we witnessed the hostile attitude towards this woman from so many of the people as they passed by. Their attitude ranged from ignoring her to glaring at her or muttering about her to their spouses. The atmosphere oozed with hatred. We immediately thought of the Gospel story where locals could hardly wait to stone the woman caught in adultery. Perhaps in this village it is about peoples fear of the unknown. We certainly have seen that in Australia when it comes to asylum seekers. I asked the lady how she thought the locals would vote in the forthcoming presidential elections and she opined it would be a strong vote for the far right. Day 14- BedeurWe have now finished the second week of our pilgrimage, and the mantra of rise and walk for 20,000 paces is well established. Today at lunch time we took out the bread left over from yesterday and found it too stale for our liking. Immediately we thought of the hungry, even in a seemingly affluent city like Sydney who would have really appreciated what we were prepared to dispense with. It really brought the good work of Vinnies to mind.
Our preparedness to discard good (but stale food) brought its own reward (or punishment). Tonight we arrived at our pre-arranged accommodation, which though a delightful place, is remote with no shops open, because in Bedeur everything closes on Monday. Instead of a Gite (none in Bedeur open) we booked in advance to a Chambres d’hotes (more up market). They were supposed to supply a good dinner and breakfast (or at least the Miam Miam Dodo guide said so). But the owner tells us that has changed this year, because her husband has another job and doesn’t do the cooking any more. After arriving hungry and tired we found there is no food and the nearest town is 8km away! We had already eaten all the food we had carried during the day. Also there is no other accommodation here hence we are stuck for the night. Well we have received our just rewards for the indifference we showed at lunch time to yesterday’s bread. After pleading our plight the owner relented and offered us some bread and pate for dinner. With a little horse trading we substituted milk and few eggs for the pate. Before this we had started to wonder do Vinnies do food runs this far away! Remember if you have appreciated receiving these reports, visit our donate for Vinnies page and support their good work, even if they cannot help us in Bedeur! This is our first stay in a Chambres d’hotes (equivalent to a B&B but usually with dinner). When I first saw a sign 6 years ago for a Chambres d’hotes I misread it as Chamber of Horrors. Now I think I was originally correct. Today we passed through the largest town so far of Figeac. Figeac has everything you need but again its Monday and the town is also largely closed. I hope, when we reach Carjac tomorrow, we don’t find Tuesday is their day off! Last night we were in a beautiful Gite in Felzins. As in all Gites the owner advises you of the procedures to be gone through to prevent the transfer of bed bugs from Gite to Gite. Bed bugs can be found in any place of accommodation, but they seem to be transported more easily in crowded places where back packs are involved. The owners want to be informed should you find bed bugs. Well last night I heard all faint tapping sounds in the bedroom but paid little heed to it. In the morning I found 3 dead bugs and took them to the owner. He was very pleased to tell me that they were not bedbugs but a wood bugs. After I told him about the faint tapping sounds (termites in action) he clearly wished I had found bedbugs instead. For the next two nights we may not be able to find WIFI, so please be patient. Day 13 FelzinsThe Gite last night was full of French walkers. One nice couple looked after us and we had an interesting meal. The Monsieur works for the company that makes Yoplait and comes to Australia regularly. Yoplait is a combination of 3 words. Yo (Yoghurt), P (pasteurisation) and lait (milk).
I think we are losing weight on the journey, but with allthe food I don’t understand how! All the other pilgrims we have come to know are scattered across the Chemins. One girl Betty, who was walking for a week (as do many Europeans) has gone back to her family. While another French couple we met yesterday are just starting their week of walking. Many of the walkers are middle aged persons approaching retirement. The pilgrims walking to St Jean or further are generally younger. Today was a nice walking day of about 20km, the hills seem to be getting easier as we get up each morning and head out to face them (or else we are getting fitter). By now many of you may have read Barry Borham’s article on Meditation and Mindfulness. (See interesting Links page) Yesterday I mentioned one example of how mindfulness is useful for me in handling the more difficult hills. Today I wish to point out similarities between walking the Camino and Meditation as I understand the latter. Most meditation requires a single focus and a mantra to assist that focus if and when required. Sometimes the mantra can be the focus itself. Well walking 20km per day is at least 20,000 paces of left, right, left, right … The very act of walking may be seen as a mantra in its own right. Putting it together for 30+ days in a row is a great basis for a pilgrimage, with meditation as an important component . It is rather easy to select a phrase(s) that replaces left, right, … to suit your disposition and needs. Today (Palm Sunday) we found 11am Mass in a small village at the top of a hill. We were rather fortunate as we arrived right at the blessings of the palms outside the church. A kindly French woman gave us a portion of her palms which we later carried, tied to our packs. Fortunately I had a small print English translation of the long Gospel for today. Enda had to make do with rapidly spoken French interspersed with singing which we don’t experience in Australia. The weather still continues to be brilliant, how long can it last? Sun burnt walkers can be seen everywhere. The ground is drying up and there is very little mud left. The bells in the Churches and some other buildings chime every hour and on the half hour. I remember church bells when I was young in Randwick, we rarely hear them now in Sydney, I think it’s a shame. Here they are everywhere in the country side. They seem to be badly coordinated as at midday it is possible to have 24 separate chimes. Day 12- DecazevilleToday we left Conques a village with a medieval charm hanging on the sides of a steep gorge above the river Deurdeu. We spent the night at the Abbey de Saint Foy and just managed to stay awake for the office of Compline at 9:30 after a long day and large meal.
This morning we faced a hard climb out of the gorge. When we left Sydney we had worried about this day, but because we were adhering to the Camino philosophy of “Letting Go” over the past 11 days; we found it well within our ability. Letting go ensured that the anxiety (which is unimportant because there is nothing one can do about if we are committed to the action of climbing the mountain) is allowed to pass through to the keeper (to use a cricket analogy). As a result we both started with a positive frame of mind and even passed younger pilgrims in the ascent. Going up we came to a Chapel of St Roch. It is tiny but has a bell, the chord hangs just inside the door and we believe pilgrims are expected to toll the bell as they pass. Well Enda certainly did. There are several stories of St Roch. One has him as a physician who contracted the plague while undertaking the pilgrimage to Santiago. He was one who didn’t succumb to the plague and on recovery stayed on to treat other pilgrims who became infected. He is much revered along the Camino and many Chapels are found dedicated to him. He is normally depicted in statues holding his tunic above his knee to depict the plague mark. Usually accompanied by a dog as it is said when he was suffering from the plague, a dog continually licked his wounds clean. He is said to be the patron saint of dogs and bachelors. For the lovers of food: tonight we had a dish which could be described as lasagne like. The important distinction being instead of pasta, sheets of cabbage are used. The meat ingredient is minced pork with herbs. There are traces of other vegetables, bread and rice. Not to be ever seen on a Parisian restaurant table but is superb country food. Like all the food so far on the Camino it was not sophisticated, merely wonderful home style cooking. I somehow get the impression that despite our attempt to emulate earlier pilgrims we are failing in our dietary intake. We need to constantly remind ourselves that one purpose of this Camino was to help the St Vincent de Paul Society, at the moment with all the good food, we feel we are letting the side down. But tomorrow morning as soon as the climbing begins all this will be forgotten, as we progress step after step. Always remembering to live in the moment and to be content with one step at a time. Mindfulness yet again put into practice. Tomorrow here is Passion (Palm) Sunday and we enter the final week of Lent. We added Kelvin Quill, Frank Burgess, and Betty Anderson to our prayer list. Today’s candle for all our pilgrims in spirit and those on our prayer list was lit in a Chapel of St Rock 1.5 km from the village of Noailhac. You may be able to make out St Rock in the statue. Remember if you wish to put someone on our prayer list or to have any intention included, please email me [email protected] Day 11- ConquesLast night at Le Soulier we experienced the most wonderful of nights with our hosts Michael and Vivian. They had Vivian’s mother from Belgium and her friend (Christine) with them, the mother is nameless as she insisted we call her Mum. The friend volunteering was Jasmine and her young son 8, was Max. Jasmine is an actress in Brussels and also lectures at the University in drama, Max… would,
like to be a cowboy. We had several shoot outs. After dinner we sat around the table singing the pilgrim song Ultreia. "Tous les matins nous prenons le chemin, Tous les matins nous allons plus loin. Jour apres jour, St Jacques nous appelle C’est la voix de Compostelle. Ultreia! Ultreia! E sus eia Deus adjuva nos! " There are more verses; naturally. This morning a good sleep was followed by an equally delightful breakfast which started around 7 and resulted in us not leaving until 9am; despite our best attempts each day to be on the road by 7:30. As eventually we headed down the road they sang us Ultreia until we were out of sight. (In France so far the choice of road is either down or up) The pilgrim refuge is called Accueil Chretien du Soulie de Saint Jacques. It is situated on the GR65 2km before Espeyrac. Or 1km after the intersection of the GR65 and the GR6. Now out of the Central Massif for the past couple of days, the weather has turned into summer. The forecast is for more days like this. Should this continue Europe is in for a scorcher of a summer. I am glad we am not walking the Camino Frances in August. Hopefully by October when some of our friends start it may be more mild. We have advised Ce who starts later in April to bring plenty of sunblock for Spain. We have added three more names to our prayer list: Betty Anderson, Kelvin Quill and Frank Burgess (recently deceased). Should you wish a name to be added email me on [email protected] We have changed our walking strategy a little, using the roads when it seems purposeless to go up some of the hills of the GR65. The way the GR65 wanders around is a common source of complaint and we are not the only pilgrims avoiding completely unnecessary hills. Enda is always looking for short cuts and frequently would select the incorrect path if left to her own devices. I do think she is starting to appreciate the fundamental camino lesson of “Don’t walk on your own Enda”. We are in the Abbey St Foy in Conques tonight. We are back in the deep gorge of the river Lot. Yesterday we waked away from it over some hills but today it is once again our friend. Tomorrow morning that status may change with a climb of 280m to start before breakfast has time to digest. There is no easy way tomorrow, a day of only 20km (sounds easy) but is graded as one of the 3 toughest days of this camino. Day 10- Le SoulierTonight we are at a Gite, specifically intent on welcoming pilgrims rather than walkers. It is a little like last night except there are no offices or Mass. It is a tiny place that can accommodate only 6 pilgrims, two of whom presently are a mother and son, the mother being a volunteer worker at the Gite. She is working hard in the garden at this time. Her son is 8 years old and Enda
has been teaching him a little English. Today started off rather easily, but then the climbs began. Not too difficult but many of them! The camino taught us once again that as we climb we should live in the moment (Mindfulnness). Don’t be looking forward to see how long it is to the top, that can be dispiriting, don’t look back to see how good it was down on the flat land, as that is past history and cannot be relived. Be mindful instead of the immediate, what do you see, what is the path like, what plants are growing at the side of the path, what way is the wind blowing, how does it feel on your face, is the sun shining, is there rain or mist, is it cold or hot, … ,? These are only some of the many things which your mind could be considering. Focus your mind on these in a way that does not judge, just appreciate the moment for how you observe it. I have found such techniques to be truly helpful in many situations. So is deep breathing, but rather difficult if you are gasping for breath walking up hill. In that case stop, rest and try deep breathing and get your mind back into the present in a positive sense. For those interested in food, green lentils are still all the go even though we have moved out of Le Puy and the Central Massif. They seem to combine them frequently with cloves, either in soup or as a vegetable with meat (or other vegetables). Tonight we were treated to the regional dish called Alligot, a combination of Cantal cheese, potatoes, cream and spices. We should be putting on weight with all the good bread and wonderful cheese that we consume, hopefully we have found a good exercise and diet balance. We have added Dalmae Kelly to our prayer list. Please continue praying for her and all on our list. (The list may be found on the Useful Links page). On the Useful Links page we have added three links Brendan Bolton has given us. Brendan an Australian and family have recently upended roots in Australia and moved to Santiago to further his passion for the Camino. He has established Project Camino which produces podcasts of interviews with people who have walked the Camino. One of the three links takes you directly to an interview he did with us about 4 weeks ago, but most of you would be aware of its content. I suggest listening to some of the other podcast should you have the time. Day 9- EstaingDay 9 finds us in Estaing, one of the denoted “Beautiful Villages of France”. What we have seen lives up to that accolade. We are staying the night in a vast and bourgeois house which today holds the Hospitalite Saint-Jacques. By today’s standards bourgeois is no longer an appropriate appellation; historically significant true, but a little Spartan is more accurate. However, when you meet the two lay people whose mission has been to run this refuge for over 25 years and their 3 month volunteer helper, it feels you have found the perfect resting place. There is Mass tonight in their chapel, plus the office of Compline. In the morning there is the office of Lauds. Attendance as these services is optional but for me they are an essential part of our pilgrimage. Naturally we will remember all undertaking this pilgrimage in spirit with us. Today’s path was delightful. A local resident of Saint-Come-d’Olt advised us to ignore the official GR65 route and instead follow a road the ran close to and at times alongside the river Lot. How fortunate we were to encounter this nice man from Portugal (married to a French girl and living in Saint-Come-d’Olt). Naturally the whole conversation took some time to complete with his very limited English and our equally limited French. It is unlikely to be the type of encounter you would expect, but here on the Camino anything is possible. It was further complicated by my disbelief that his advice should be accepted! Not only did we avoid a path that was in poor condition, plus a number of steep climbs, but we were treated to outstanding views of a very fast flowing river Lot. I must reprimand myself for not letting go of wanting to be in total control and to trust in the goodness of others. Another lesson from the Camino. Enda has included a number of pictures of today’s walk, one showing another candle being lit (and prayers said) for all those who have asked to be remembered along The Way. We now have a page set up (thank you Tara) where your name may be added, or the name of someone you wish to pray for added. Just mail me [email protected] to have it included. It may take a couple of days for the name to appear.
Day 8- Saint-Come-d'OltToday was an early start with only a short climb of 120 metres, nothing like previous climbs but still we worked hard. The views were worth the effort and we received our reward (no not ice cream) but a 7km section of very easy walking on a good track. Disappointment then at L’Estrade as there was no coffee (which had been promised by another pilgrim). Nothing else for that matter, other than a round table in a wooden shelter. The table served as a lazy Susan for pilgrims with food and a resting place for half a dozen well kept cats. The cats I think would like to charge pilgrims for allowing them (the pilgrims) the privilege of being photographed with them (the cats).
There were no humans to be seen apart from one older French woman whose daily delight appeared to be meeting pilgrims and speaking with them. The fact that she knew we didn’t understand a word of what she said was no problem to her. She left us for a few minutes to return to her house and fetch her husband. He has a severe respiratory disease and drove up minutes later in an electric cart with his oxygen bottle. By now, some French pilgrims had arrived and the old couple were in their element for the morning. The husband even invited us to coffee (sign language of course), we declined politely as the last time a stranger invited us to coffee we were treated as the door-mouse at the Mad Hatter’s Tea Party. We continue on with a long descent that at times was rough, but were given a quick lesson in finding good chestnuts by Kathleen, a French pilgrim we met 4 days ago. With the coming of spring, bee keepers moved their hives up into these parts for flowering plants that give a specific flavoured honey. The wild flowers are more prolific now we are losing altitude. The gardens of houses we passed, coming into the town of Saint Come were kaleidoscopic in colour. Being so used to Australian gardens I was amazed at the colours of and the proliferation of plants that seemed to grow with little formal layout or attention. As you are aware we are also undertaking this Camino to raise some much needed funds for the St Vincent de Paul Society. Vinnies have supported so many vulnerable people. Members of the society put enormous personal energy and time into the cause. We hear of many cases of need and how the Society helps. The article “Why I Help one person’s story” shows how one member felt and dealt with a heart breaking situation. (The article may be found by clicking here). We hope you had the opportunity of reading Barry Borham’s article mentioned yesterday on Meditation and Mindfulness. (The article also may be found by scrolling down the Interesting Links page on this website). It may give you the motivation to try them out. People from all backgrounds and beliefs (or lack thereof) have benefited. I have used them both for anxiety and in prayer. Tomorrow night accommodation is in a Monastery where there is no WiFi, consequently we may be unable to write to our readers. On a lighter note- Enda had a very interesting night. "Almost landed in bed with a strange man at 3am this morning. Got disorientated on my way back from the loo. Turned my torch on just in time to focus it on his face. Wow, what a scare!!!!" |
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